The speciality shop not to be missed is Tierenteyn, which looks more like an apothecary than a delicatessen. As well as showcasing the dairy’s organic cheeses, three farms sell their seasonal fruit and vegetables, bakers bring along different kinds of bread, and two cooks, Stephanie and Sofie, run a canteen, preparing main dishes, soups and cakes using market produce. It is housed in a luminous former textile factory that is also home to a city dairy, Het Hinkelspel. Shop Ghent’s reputation as a sustainable destination is symbolised by the Lousberg market (open Mon-Sat), a 20-minute walk from the city centre. Lunch €35 for three courses, rootsgent.be There are only fixed tasting menus, but you will not be disappointed with dishes such as chunky poached cod with crunchy garden peas, a herring fillet smothered with chives and dunked into a hollowed-out cucumber filled with a tangy mustard sauce, or succulent pork cheeks accompanied by smoked mashed potatoes, topped off with fermented daikon and a plump oyster. Lunch Roots is set in a romantic 17th-century cottage where chef Kim Devisschere specialises in the creative use of vegetables and sustainably caught North Sea fish. As the birthplace of the Flemish Foodies movement, it offers many farm-to-table, local and seasonal dishes, with zero carbon footprint. Ghent is a pioneer in ecotourism, it’s offbeat and fun, but it’s also a great destination for food lovers. For wine to match, head to La Cave, also in the square, where they’ll kit you out with well-priced vintages to enjoy back at the hotel, and to take home. Shop After strolling around the ramparts of the town’s mighty Vauban citadel, duck into the cobbled streets that run between the fine-bricked architecture and out into the main square, Place du Général de Gaulle, to pay a visit to the potent Fromagerie Caseus for a huge selection of cheeses, including local delicacies such as mimolette and maroilles. The Grand Place Café brings his flair to local bistro classics, such as Le Welsh (a north-France version of the croque-monsieur, €15) and mussels (€15) in its airy space with exposed brick walls and wooden tables. His Michelin-starred restaurant La Grenouillère is down the hill in La-Madelaine-sous-Montreuil, while he also has the more casual Froggy’s Tavern and Anecdote to his name in Montreuil. Lunch The hottest table in town is the brand-new Grand Place Café from local chef Alexandre Gauthier. Just over an hour south of Calais, the little town which inspired some scenes in Victor Hugo’s Les Misérables reinvented itself in 2017 as “ la destination gastronomique”, with about two dozen foodie businesses joining forces to offer a gourmet hotspot and events throughout the year. Doubles from €74 room-only, Montreuil-sur-Mer, Pas-de-Calais The popular restaurant is set on the ground floor with a large deck at the front and serves a varied menu of salads, surf and turf. The 16 rooms, eight in each villa, feature bright walls and lively art, and there are triple and quadruple rooms for families. You can enjoy it all from the sea-view rooms at Les Charmettes, a friendly hotel in two 19th-century villas right on the front. Stay Saint-Malo’s Plage de la Hoguette is a sweeping fine-sand beach low tide sees sand yachts darting about, while at high tide the waves beat the mighty sea wall. Mains from €23 (three-course lunch menu is also €23), It belongs to Jean-Yves Bordier, the chef behind Maison du Beurre, and his menus of succulent fish married with fresh local produce weave the butter in gently, with a selection of decadent desserts, such as hazelnut mousse and roasted figs. Wander over to L’Epicerie Roellinger (10-12 Rue Saint-Vincent), a cornucopia of spices, peppers and herbs from around the world, created by top chef Olivier Roellinger and inspired by the town’s links to the spice route.ĭinner If all the galettes, crêpes and salted caramels don’t give you a big enough butter hit, then book a table at the Bistrot Autour du Beurre. Also try La Maison du Sarrasin opposite for buckwheat in all its guises, as well as salted caramel and bonbons. There’s a bakery, La Maison du Pain, a few doors up for your baguette. Rue de l’Orme is also packed with foodie stores, so try Maison du Beurre for top-quality Breton butter in myriad flavours, from yuzu to Madagascan vanilla, as well as a great selection of cheese.
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